Showing posts with label retrieve. Show all posts
Showing posts with label retrieve. Show all posts

House and a weird retrieve

Wow it's been a busy month!  Lots of exciting changes completed and coming up.  We are still living in my parent's basement but our old house officially was signed away and keys turned over yesterday.  And *knock on wood* we are set to sign for and move into a new house the last weekend of July.  Plenty of room for child and her things.  And the good news is that my new yard will definitely still work for agility.  Large, flat and very few trees!



In training news, Splash has surprised me with throwing me something completely different in our retrieve training than I have seen before.  Of the hundreds of different dogs I've personally put retrieves on over the years I have yet to have a dog offer this interesting behavior:


He cracks me up!  This is actually an improvement. I've been selecting for open mouth along with the lip catch on the bar and you can see he actually is opening his mouth now a little bit. 

Today's session Splash did actually give me 2 very tiny open mouth OVER the db bar so I'm optimistic that we are on the right track. 
I just don't think I could have taught this lip catch thing if I tried!

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FDSA Camp Trip

Last week I escaped home life to go to the FDSA camp!  I didn't think I was going to be able to go this year but thanks Mom for babysitting Vito and Netta!!!

Of course camp was amazing.  Fun to meet people I've only seen online and wow there were a huge variety of breeds! 

I brought Zumi to camp to be my emotional support dog for all the socializing required, and because I wanted the opportunity to work with her in that type of environment.  We played in the empty rings about twice a day working on ring entrances, heeling and then a mix of exercises from gloves to go outs. 

Mostly I worked on Zumi dropping the ball at my feet when I put my hands behind my back in order to work. 

I usually train with her tug toy (still primarily fetch) and Zumi's great at offering that drop and knowing it starts work vs how I cue another toss.  But I haven't been applying this type of consent cue to her agility training when I use a ball.  With some brilliant reminders from lectures at camp I decided that I really needed to have this clear opt-in signal from Zumi in her agility training too.  I know the ball is harder for her drop since she loves to just squish it!  So instead of just trying to start right away applying that to agility I thought I would bring her ball to obedience work where she at least already knows the routine.  Baby steps!

The first few sessions were  difficult.  She chose to lie down and squish her ball more than work.  And that was ok!!!   We can't ask our dogs if they are ready to work and then ignore their answer!  But it definitely improved over the few days at camp.  I know she's not ready yet to do that in the context of agility but we will get there. 

I managed to break out the tripod to film her last little session of work with the tiniest bit of heeling, retrieves, a break, and then more retrieves.   And of course her dropping the ball work. 



I'm also pleased to report that Zumi really settled in well with her hotel stays.  April was her first and only hotel stay before this trip and she was a little stressed when it was just us in the room whenever our roommates were out.  She also went off her food.  This trip I was prepared with a bag full of different brands of kibble!  Zumi actually ate pretty well with her mixture of different foods, not even picking out her normal kibbles out of the mix like she did last trip.  She was also much more settled about being in the rooms even with different roommates and hotels! 


And I slept the best I've slept in 18 months.  Amazing. 


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Dumbbell Distance!

I think we're really making progress now with Zumi's retrieve arousal levels! 

I just started using a front foot target to have her wait on and that really seems to be gettign that weight shift back to prevent the foot dancing.  I've used a platform before without success, but I don't know why I didn't think of the perch!

Look at how far I can throw it now!


Her stand is coming along too.  Mainly we're working on anticipation issues now. 
I'm still using a bar in front of her and know I will need to for quite awhile.  Stupid retraining of styles! 

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Dumbbell Focus with a Jump

It's been awhile since I've posted about my obedience training with Zumi!  Mainly we are still focusing on keeping her arousal levels done, especially with retrieves and go outs. 

With her dumbbell I'm still working hard with Zumi not moving a front foot, which leads to vulturing on my db throw, and then focusing on me after she marks the landing.  She's doing pretty good with longer throws now, although I usually warm her up with short ones still.

I decided to add a jump into the picture as I know that will be even harder for her.  I started with tossing the db a short distance with the jump in the background, and then a very short toss over the jump itself.  This session from 9/30 is still roughly where we are at.  Haven't had too many opportunities to train at home recently!



In general, I've really been trying to watch Zumi's arousal levels in training.  These last 6(?) months she has been doing some vocalizing in her obedience work and of course the vulturing.  It hasn't yet crept into heelwork but it is a problem with her go outs as well as the retrieves!

It's sure been interesting watch Zumi grow into adulthood this last year!

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Trials, Training, and More Dogs

I've not been so great at updating the blog lately!  Let's give a quick recap of things I've been working on this month.

Zumi
Zumi's been working hard at learning to give me eye contact and not start the vulture before being sent on retrieves.

She also did an AKC rally trial last weekend, her first two times in advanced.  I was eager to see if she would handle the environment of AKC better than her last trial all the way back in October.  The great news is that I didn't see any of the small stress signs I saw back then!  Her run on Saturday was everything I could hope for.  She did struggle with doing the halt-call front exercise but that was not a surprise to me.  While Zumi does have a beautiful pivot to front, I've noticed that lately she's been doubting the verbal cue and just twitching instead.

On Sunday's run her focus entering the ring and even ignoring a delightfully chatty judge was excellent!  However, she seemed to think that the "fast" sign meant that we were suddenly doing agility and she should look for something to send to.  I called Zumi back as she started to take off, but as soon as she returned the lightbulb went off in her little head and she proudly went forward again to do an "out" around a sign.  Other than her creativity, I was happy with her focus and clearly confident performance.

I hope to enter another AKC rally trial next month as a stepping stone to getting her ready for AKC obedience.  Our club's trial is in October and I'm debating about entering Zumi in novice obedience then, or just continuing our rally route for a few more trials.

Vito
Vito has been working on his fronts with a retrieve item.  Something that's never been 100% and has steadily declined over the years.  I cringe as he always comes in close and straight and then right as he begins a sit he suddenly decides to shuffle back a half step.  I  have no idea why.  He never does that without an item in his mouth of course.

I'm trying an experiment with him involving a chin rest.  It would be an easier experiment if the way I teach their retrieves didn't involve an automatic drop into a held out hand as an informal delivery option...  But we are making progress.  Mainly he needs to learn how to target and then do a tucked sit vs the rock back shuffle.

Nala
And this week we got a visitor!  Nala is an 8 month old Labrador puppy!  Another service dog in training of course.  She needed an evaluation and some training as she had really been struggling with life behind bars.  Nala was in our prison program, but it was determined not to be a good fit for her.


So welcome Nala!  I'm not sure how long we will have her for, current plan is a few weeks.

Zumi is in love. She lets Nala get away with all sorts of stuff she never lets other dogs even think about.  Sadly for me, this means they have been playing in the house.  Our house is so tiny that I really prefer the dogs only wrestle or chase outside.  Especially with a crawling baby now!  This usually isn't a problem since my only player is Zumi and her play style is usually more chase than wrestle. Well with Nala she's been more open.  I'm hoping that things settle down once the novelty wears off.



Nala is proving to be a very sweet, gentle girl yet still extremely puppyish!  Between Nala, Yummy, and another lab foster we had last week, it's becoming clear while labs are such great family dogs.  The dynamic between them and Netta is very different than with the other dogs.  I'm still doing a lot of management and making sure Netta isn't grabbing them, but I swear the labs are almost begging to be poked by a child.

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Yummy- retrieve pt3 Victory!

Mission accomplished!

That was Yummy a few days ago, showing off her hold, pickup and hold (with help of target to leg!), and retrieve of a metal canning ring.  Round of applause to Yum Yum.

I've spent these last 2 weeks with Yummy working on getting her to pick up a variety of items and deliver them to my hand.  At first, it was rewarding lots of flings and maybe getting her to deliver the item to my hand after a couple of reps (or sessions).

Today was the first time she worked with 2 brand new objects and on the very first attempt she confidently picked them up and put them right in my hand.  Extra mission accomplished.

Well, really she would still have a long way to go if she were to be a mobility service dog.  Besides the other tasks she would need to learn or keep fine tuning, the retrieve really isn't done yet either.  More items would need to be conquered from the small to heavy to awkwardly shaped.  The hold would need to be generalized more.  And while Yummy has always been easy about generalizing skills to new locations, this would need more attention.

Yummy doesn't need to learn a formal front and hold like she would for obedience.  But just for fun I've trained her to find front with the help of a platform.  And I gave her one single lesson in combining her hold with her find front exercise just to see how she would do.  Good girl Yummy!

And now that I've accomplished my personal mission with her, we're sending her off!  Yummy will now "officially" be in for final training and live at the facility while the trainer works on getting to know her and finding her a good match.  More than likely she will be placed as an easy going autism assist dog!  Wish her luck on her upcoming journey!

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Yummy Retrieve pt 2- More Problem Solving

Yummy, the service dog in training, and I are still working on that retrieve.  It's been about 12 days since our last update where I shared our progress on trying to get movement and a short stationary hold.

I'm happy to share that we now have a few steps of forward movement after picking up the dumbbell.  Yummy can pick it up and walk forward about 4ft to put it inside my bucket, or right at the edge of it.  Remember, my goal with the bucket/platform isn't really to teach a clean up at this point but more to use as a reward station to help Yummy develop a pattern.  The location you reward tends to act as a magnet!
Her consistency still isn't quite there as she regresses into flinging sometimes, and fairly frequently Yummy also just does a quick grab and immediate drop.  But with Yummy it's pretty darn big progress!


In the meantime, I was also able to slightly progress Yummy's hold so that she would pick it up off the ground directly in front of me and hold it briefly in a stand.  This was incredibly hard for her and often resulted in Yummy lying down while doing her hold or just dropping it immediately.  I was seeing too much avoidance behaviors as well.

So I abandoned our stationary hold practice except for the occasional rep while I remain holding it or she's holding it while doing a chair visit.  Then, since Yummy had started to get the concept of aiming, just a little bit, to her bucket or platform, I tried to see if just using her platform training and always rewarding in a sit would help her.  Pick up dumbbell, drop in front of platform or just barely on it, complete the "front" to get her cookie.  Hoping the reward placement and the chain itself would start to come together.  It might have helped if I stuck with it longer, but I switched tactics.

I realized that what Yummy was really struggling with was being able to lift her head UP.  Most dogs at this point I've been able to place my hands together in a big cup as I move backward.  I can shape them pretty easily in aiming for my hands with the help of my movement guiding them.  But once again Yummy needs something different.  So I started working with her "visit" to the chair cue as being her new target.  Tiny lift off ground, reward placed on the chair, and then cues to visit in between reps.  Here I liked what I started to see.

Today for the first time I added myself into the picture.  Review pick up and put it on the chair (which still needs practice by itself), and then I sat in the chair and worked on visit to my lap instead of to the chair.


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Yummy- Teaching a Retrieve

We have had Yummy for 3 weeks now, working on teaching her some mobility and autism skills.  Her temperament is greatly suited for autism assist work but I like all the service dogs to also be introduced to some of the basic mobility tasks as well as actually learning some sharper obedience tasks such as pivot skills for heel and side, moving downs, etc.  It's also possible that Yummy might not pan out for autism work due to her body sensitivity issues in wearing a bigger backpack that she would need for that placement.

So we are working on quite a few tasks.  The biggest hurdle for Yum Yum is her retrieve.  Last summer I spent weeks getting her to pick up a fleece rope and then just started to get her to levitate a dumbbell.  I have taught a LOT of retrieves to different dogs, not just labs and goldens(!), and by far Yummy has been the slowest.  When Yummy returned to her puppy raiser she was actually biting both objects and lifting them off the ground a few inches, but that was it.  Luckily this time she did at least pick right back up with where she left off.  I had levitation of a rope right away and just a few sessions later I had the dumbbell moving a few inches off the ground.  This was Yum from last summer, working on not just opening her mouth but actually getting teeth on her rope and db.  I remembered wanting to get video to show how hard it was with her db, but easier with the softer rope:


And now I've spent 2.5 weeks trying to get movement.  Any movement at all of Yummy being able to take a step or even turn her head with the object.  Baby, baby steps.  With dogs like Yummy I almost always use a reward station so the dog has a predictable spot to get their reward.  Just like how a dog will start to crab out in heel position if you always feed in front of your body, I wanted Yummy to think about moving towards the reward station with her dumbbell in prediction of food delivery!  Usually I use a bucket, but I also did some experimentation with a platform.

We are finally to the point where she can usually do head turns without dropping the dumbbell.  And if I put the dumbbell in a bit of a chute she can back out a step or two with it.  It's progress.  Eventually, my goal is for the dog to purposefully put the object in/on the reward station, to clean up, but for right now it's all about reward placement!


Yummy is also working on a hold.  Typically I don't introduce any stationary holds until after I have a decent retrieve to hand.  I backchain many things, but not my retrieve.  But with Yummy already spending quite a bit of time (well, compared to the amount of time I will have with her to try to finish it) on the retrieve, I wanted to see if it would be a better approach.

Again I chose to deviate from my usual first approach to hold training.  Since I teach dogs to tug back when biting a dumbbell to promote a strong grip, I've never been able to teach a hold with my hands on it.  Even with my own dogs, they can be given an item to hold and then can remain holding while I reach back to put my hands on it.   But if I try to give it to them and want a hold without me letting go first it's just not going to happen!
Since I hadn't gotten to that stage of tug back on the db yet with Yum Yum and didn't see it being a fast process with her, I decided to do mutual holding.  Actually I made it a 3 way with me, Yummy, and a chair to use for a chin rest.  Yummy does kinda know a chin rest to my palm, but I wanted a free hand to use reverse luring as well.  Of course :)

This was Yummy's 2nd and 3rd lesson working on a hold with chin rest:



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Teaching a Hold with Reverse Luring- Zen Keeper

* Update Jan 2018- I have been informed that the technique I referred to as reverse luring was not actually how "reverse luring" is done.  I have since renamed the version I use to Zen Keeper- i reference to it as a "doggy zen" version of a keep going signal.
Please visit this new blog post for more details of the method: 

Over 2 years after I posted about using Reverse Luring to train duration behaviors it remains my most popular post.  I am thrilled that while reverse luring is not my invention, I am able to help spread it's use to other trainers around the world!  And by far the most common search landing on it's page is how to use reverse luring in teaching a hold.  While the short video I made demoing the technique does show using reverse luring to teach a hold, the video was never meant as a how to guide and the clip showed dogs at the intermediate level.  Not as helpful to those looking for more step by step instructions!  So due to so many people having questions, I decided to make another video!

Note- I personally almost always train a shaped retrieve to hand BEFORE I start hold training.  I find that teaching dogs to move with an object in their mouth is usually easier and thus develops a strong reward history with the object before beginning more stationary work.  There are many ways to shape a retrieve and I outlined my methods here.

Zumi was a perfect subject for my video as I started teaching her first hold lesson earlier this month and just a few lessons later she has a pretty solid 5 second hold of a variety of objects.  Unfortunately due to the quickness in which she picked up the skill, I didn't have as much video of her struggling in the initial stages as I had hoped for.  For those new to training a hold, realize that the first 3 seconds are the hardest to get!  Typically once I build to 3 seconds it isn't long before I have 5 then 10 then 30+ seconds!

Video below:


And more written steps for those who like to read :)
1. Once I have a dog who already knows how to bite an object and target my hand with it I begin hold training.  My first step is reviewing the concept of don't stare at the food, offer a behavior.  If this is brand new to the dog I usually start this concept with hand targeting.  Can the dog do a nose touch to my hand if my other hand has food visible?  Don't be tempted to cheat and move your hand away!  If the dog wants to stare at my food hand I let him!  Too much staring and I might just reward for the dog offering eye contact, but then I'll help them out by wiggling my other hand.  This is a very important step and can be hard for many dogs, so don't skip it!  I find that working on the concept of moving away from food is crucial to a lot of advanced obedience training!

So at the end of this step the dog is confidently biting the object even with food held out at nose level.

2. Tug backs.  Most new dogs will have a very loose grip on the object as they bite it.  To get more full bites I typically reward the dog for closer and closer steps to actually tugging back on the object.  Downside of this is that many dogs will start offering backing up with the item as they go to bite it.  I don't care, it's easy to train out later :)  Regardless of what you choose to do, try and click for more solid bites vs wussy mouthing!

3. Shaping.  No different than any other method, you need to build duration very slowly.  You can either keep your free hand on the object as the dog bites it, or briefly let go.  I personally have better success letting go.  Remember the click ends the behavior so I don't care if it falls to the floor when it drops!  At this step I try and get to using reverse luring to help the dog with a feedback system.  Open hand=dog is correct, closed fist or removed fist=dog was wrong (ie dropped the object or rolled it in his mouth).  In the super early stages I often don't have time to even open my hand (as the dog goes to bite the object) as I click almost right away!  But very gradually try it.  For many dogs the movement of your hand towards their mouth also helps them as it takes their brain off of what is in their mouth and onto the choice they have to make to not go for the food!

Keep working on it!  Patience!  Build up to 5 seconds slowly :)

4. Proofing.  Now you should easily be able to have your hand in the open palm/closed fist feedback and start moving your hand around to tempt the dog.  Move the hand above the dog and towards the ground.  Try having the food on a table you reach for.  Be creative and build your dog's confidence as you further their understanding of what you want.

5.  Movement.  In the above steps you were likely giving the dog the object while they were already sitting.  The dog moving and then being asked to hold is a novel concept!  Experiment with what is easier for your dog to start this concept.  Maybe picking it off the ground and then holding?  Being given the object and then asked to do a trick like spin, or shake and still hold it?  Carrying the object while heeling and then a brief hold as you stop?

My eventual goal is a full formal retrieve of pick up off the ground, come to front, sit, and hold.  You can see how that is lots of steps!  For my dogs, the pickup and hold is somewhat hard at first, but the hold and then move into a sit even harder.

Good luck!  Feel free to write with any tips!
Baby Vito in levitating dumbbell hold!

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How to: Teach your dog to hold

I hate teaching the holding part of the retrieve.  I save it for last as I think both the dog and I have more fun when we're moving around.  (Click here for my retrieve training).  However getting a solid hold on an object without mouthing is important in the obedience ring and a necessity for the service dogs.  No one wants a punctured juice box brought to them!


Luckily the majority of dogs won't mouth if they are moving fast enough so for most service dogs you can get by with just focusing on a solid retrieve to hand or lap as long as the dog is really working at pushing the item into the persons hand.  Without formal hold training the dogs can also usually heel with an item in their mouth and also do a quick rise up to a desk and drop/bring an item without mouthing as neither task requires the dog to be standing still.  However I still would love for all the dogs to have the ability to sit or stand and hold an object without crunching it to death or rolling it around in their mouth so I try and teach a nice hold if I have time.  And with my dogs it is a very fun trick and great for pictures!

I find it very time consuming and have yet to find one easy force free method that will work for the majority of dogs.  I use a lot of experimentation and am continuously looking for new ways to explain to the dogs what I want.  Here is the list of ideas I have successfully tried, please comment on other methods that work for you! Also note that some of these methods won't work unless your dog already has a retrieve.

*db= dumbbell, but start out using whatever item the dog enjoys retrieving.
*with any method the click ends the behavior so I could care less if it falls to the ground when I click.
*Remember to click when your dog still has the db in its mouth.  If anything try and click early as being late with your timing will just reward the dog for dropping it.

1. Pure shaping- While either holding the db and presenting it to the dog or by having the dog pick it off the floor, gradually delay your click so the dog is holding it for longer and longer.  Remember that a dog who starts out with a 1/4sec hold and jumps to a 1/2sec hold has just doubled their time!  You can also try clicking when the dog offers a little bit of a tug back on the db while you’re holding it.  If the dog is trying to tug then they have a tight grip!  As with any metIhod, if the dog mouths at all, even if they don't drop it,  I immediately remove the db from their mouth and try again.  The goal isn't just to get duration, but to get duration without mouthing!

2. Two Grabs- Require the dog to mouth the db twice before you click.  In theory the time between grabs will gradually shorten until the dog gets lazy and offers one tiny bit longer hold instead. 

It will first look like grab……grab click.  Then grab..grab click.   Grab.Grab click.  And finally grraaabbb jackpot!

3. Distraction Held Out-  (my favorite method!) First your dog has to know to maintain eye contact with you if you hold food out.  This should be a strong automatic reflex where the dog really works hard to find your eyes and ignore whatever distraction you are holding out.

Now give your dog the db and immediately hold some treats out to the side or drop them to the floor.  Your dog might hold it without realizing it since his brain is so focused on trying to avoid looking at the treats.  Click any baby hold your dog just offered.

If you can get a tiny hold this way then start setting the food on a table that is within arms reach.  Now when you give the dog the db start reaching towards the food, if your dog drops or mouths the db then return your arms to your side.  The goal is to grab a piece of food off of the table before clicking.  Then grab the piece of food and bring it towards the dog before clicking, etc.

Edit: Apparently a variation of this method has the name reverse luring.  I've since had good success with the open/closed fist in teaching the hold.

4. Position changes- Since it is easier for the dog to hold the db when moving, see if you can get the dog to do tricks while he has the db in his mouth.  Cue a down/beg/heel/spin/whatever while the dog is walking towards you with the db in his mouth or after you give the dog the db.  The dog will likely drop it at first but eventually will start multi tasking and then you can ask for two tricks in a row.  If you get up to to two tricks in succession you can start delaying the time between the tricks until you have a baby hold while the dog is standing still.

5. Visit- Assuming your dog knows a chin rest behavior, ask the dog to do so to your lap or your palm with the db in his mouth.  You might first have to place the db already on your lap/palm and click the dog grabbing it.  Work up to the dog grabbing the db and then moving into position and holding it.  The db should be resting on your body so all the dog has to do is keep his mouth on the db.

6. Tugging- Using a tug rope or favorite soft toy play a game of tug of war with your dog.  When you let go see if your dog will remain holding the rope while you do a short little tug on the rope hanging out the side of his mouth.  You want the dog to tighten his grip so that you can’t tug the toy out of his mouth.  Play another rousing round of tug of war and then attempt the hold again.  The dog should be anticipating the game of tug to start up any minute so should keep a firm grip on the toy.

If your dog has a fabulous tug to open doors you can also try getting him to continually hold the rope so that a heavy door remains open.  The dog would have to tighten his grip against the pressure of the door trying to close.
 


Please add to this list if you have another method for teaching a dog to hold an object.  I am certainly not an expert in this area and want new ideas!  

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How To: Teach Your Dog to Retrieve!

There's a lot of info out on this subject already but each trainer generally has thier own little twists.  The beauty of clicker training is that there is no one set recipee, you just do what works for your dog!  Most of my instructions are a combination of Shirley Chong's Retrieve and Lana Mitchell's Clicked Retriever and then just what I've found works with my dogs and others I've helped.

Play Retrieve:
I'll first start out with how I teach a general play retrieve that I do with puppies or older dogs who show an interest but have just never been taught.

Start by sitting in the hallway with one of your dog’s favorite toys.  Get your dog interested in the toy by snaking it along the ground and teasing him with it.  Remember that prey moves away from dogs, not towards it!  Once your dog is intent on getting the toy, toss it a short distance down the hallway.  Your dog should eagerly race to get the toy and barrel back.  Excitedly praise your little retriever and get ready to intercept your puppy as he tries to run past you.  Don’t reach for the toy right away, instead get his tail to wag as you praise and pet him all over.  After a short time you can then play a fun game of tug with the object, trade the toy for a good treat, or trade the toy for a second toy.  Better yet, keep your dog guessing so he never knows what reward he is going to get.  Vito really likes to tug so I used tugging as his reward most of the time but now his reward is mostly another throw!

Keep your sessions very short and always end before your dog gets bored of the game.  You will want to play this game in a hallway for awhile to channel your dog’s return back to you.  Once your dog is eagerly bringing his toy back to you, start using a variety of household objects for your dog to retrieve.  Don’t make your dog do a formal wait to retrieve yet as you want to create a strong drive to get the object.  Lightly restraining the dog as you throw the toy and getting him verbally revved up can also create a stronger drive to get it.  It may also help to keep a special toy just for this play retrieve work that you keep up on the fridge.  You only bring it down and make a huge deal out of it when you're training.

If your dog runs out to get the toy but doesn’t want to bring it back, try running a few steps backwards as you excitedly call your dog.  Or you could try showing your dog a treat or another toy to entice him back to you.  Just be careful that you don’t try this trick for more then a few times as you want the treat/toy to be a reward for bringing the toy back to you and not a bribe.  Another trick is putting a leash on the toy so you can reel it back in.

Tug
Playing tug of war is also a great way to encourage your dog to bring a toy all the way back to your hand.  Tugging gives your dog a reason to thrust the toy into your hand instead of dropping the toy at your feet awaiting the next throw.  Simply play a good game of tug with your dog and then let go of the toy.  As soon as you let go of the toy back away from your dog and call excitedly.  Cup your two hands together and move them out to the side of your body while encouraging your dog to shove the toy into your palms.  At first you will want to really exaggerate the movement of your hands and lean your entire body in the direction you want your dog to go.  The moment the toy hits your hands play another round of tug!  You are teaching your dog that the fun starts when the toy reaches your hand.  Soon you can start throwing your tug toy and get the retrieve!

Formal Retrieve:
Teaching a formal retrieve is a whole other ball game.  Even with a natural retriever I teach it step by step as I am aiming for a really nice hold.  It took me months to get through these steps with Lance the most unnatural retriever ever and Vito went through the steps quickly but we then spent months on getting a nice sit and hold.

Step 1: Interact with this object
Start with a dumbbell or dowel and have your clicker and treats ready.  Hold out the dumbbell and be ready to click the instant your dog moves to investigate it.  In the beginning you will want to put the dumbbell behind your back after each click because the reappearance of it will make it easier for your dog to investigate.  In this first step our goal is to get the dog purposefully touching the dumbbell with his nose.  Make sure to vary the position that you hold the dumbbell so that your dog learns to actively move towards it in order to touch it.

Step 2: Open mouth Only
Now your dog should be touching the dumbbell immediately after each presentation and is moving his body to do so.  We are still going to be holding the dumbbell in our hand but now are only going to click when your dog opens his mouth on the dumbbell.  The goal is to get a solid bite on the dumbbell, but any mouthing or licking will also be clicked at this point.  Don’t worry about your dog holding the dumbbell, just click for an open mouth on it.

Step 3: On the floor
If your dog is consistently opening his mouth on the dumbbell you can now put it on the floor and start over.  Begin with eye glances, nose bumps, and progress until your dog is now mouthing the dumbbell when it is on the floor in front of you.

*Step 4:  Lift off

Put the dumbbell on the floor directly in front of you and start clicking the instant you see one bell come off the ground.  You should not be waiting until the dumbbell completely levitates but should be clicking the start of this lift off.  Your dog should be dropping the dumbbell as soon as you click and that is the start of a good give!  The final goal of this step is for your dog to lift the dumbbell off the floor to about knee height.  You should not be trying to grab the dumbbell at this point, so watch your toes when you click!  If you are having problems at this step, remember that it is better to click early rather then late.  So be ready to click just a tiny hop of the dumbbell instead of waiting for a large leap.  If your dog drops the dumbbell before you click, DON’t try and click late.  If you click as the dumbbell is falling back to the floor you are teaching the dog that the drop is the important part instead of the pick up.



*Step 5: Turn to You

Start with the dog on your side and put the db about 6 inches in front of you.  If the db is placed parallel to you and the dog this will encourage the dog to pickup and already start turning back to you.  Click as soon as the dog turns his head to you with the db in his mouth.  You are not looking for a full retrieve so it doesn’t matter if the db falls to the floor.  Ideally your hand will be outstretched and ready to catch the object on this very tiny turn.  Progress until the dog is willing to travel up to 2 feet to bring the object close to your body.

Note:  Some dogs progress faster by skipping step 5 and working on step 7 where you start the retrieve back to you without the db being on the ground.

Step 6:  Delivery to hand
Once your dog can grab the db and immediately turns back to you without dropping it, you are going to work on the dog shoving it in your hand.  In this stage you can either hand your dog the db (as explained in 6b) or place it on the floor 2-3ft in front of you.  As your dog is turning back towards you while you run backwards a few steps, hold both of your hands together so that they form a little cup to place the db in.  Now move your little cup out to the side of your body while really exaggerating this movement and even leaning your entire body in the direction you want your dog to go.  It can also help to hold your top hand a little bit higher while having a visible treat right above the bottom hand you want your dog to target.

If you are having a hard time with this step try resting your hand on the floor and see if you can shape your dog to pick up or even roll the dumbbell into your hand.  Be patient!  If this is still a difficult process then skip to working on the clean up trick.  Having your dog put an item into a bucket is a much bigger target to aim for compared to your palm.

Step 7: Take from hand
At this point some dogs will be bringing you back an object from the floor but still can not grab an object you hand them without dropping it.  I find it easiest to teach this skill while the dog is already in motion.  For some dogs handing them a db while you are heeling and then continuing to heel for a few more steps can start the process.  For other dogs I work on a grab and turn to me game:

Start with your dog on your left (or right) side and have the dumbbell in your right hand.  You are going to lean forward one step and move your right hand with the dumbbell forward directly in front of you.  Your dog needs to move forward to get that dumbbell and as soon as you feel his teeth touch the dumbbell you are going to let go of it and immediately shuffle back a couple steps.  Click as SOON as your dog turns his head to you with the dumbbell in his mouth.  Don’t worry if the dumbbell falls the floor but give major praise for this first tiny take and turn of the dumbbell!  Since you are still holding the dumbbell at the start your dog should not have to take more then a few steps to be right in front of you again.  As your dog progresses you should work on running backwards a few more steps after your dog grabs it so that your dog is moving towards you with the dumbbell in his mouth.  Make this grab and run to you very fun!  This step I spend quite a bit of time on since I want a nice tight turn back to me immediately after grabbing the dumbbell.

Holding it out in front with dog at side (Lance is in a wait, but only so a picture could be taken.)


Dog moves forward to mouth it
You let go as soon as teeth connect and dog should turn towards you.  Click this tight turn and first mini hold.

Step 8:: Fading your help

Now your hard work is starting to pay off as your dog should be picking up the db off the floor and thrusting it into your hand.  At this point you can start to get rid of all your extra body cues.  Your goal is for the dog to shove the db into your hand whether your hand is held out to the side, in your lap, or even behind you.  The easiest help to get rid of is your backwards movement.  Stand still when the dog grabs the object but still assist by moving your hand backwards or to the side as your dog gets close.  Your hand moving will attract the dog’s attention and serve as a reminder for bringing the item all the way to your hand.  Gradually move your hand less and less until your dog is actively seeking it out on its own. 

Slowly fade the running backwards and start practicing this sequence with you standing still and sitting.  You will also want to break this behavior chain down and click at various spots (speedy run out, tight turn, fast return, etc.  Your dog will drop it when you click but that's ok!

Step 9: Sit and Hold


I hope you have been having fun with your little retriever, but now it’s time to add in some more formal components. The sit and hold is another huge project for some dogs and this step is where I struggled the most. See the separate blog post!

Remember Vito's levitating hold?!


Read more...
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Dogs are not our whole life, but they make our lives whole.- Roger Caras

Email: lkwaudby (at) gmail.com

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